Wine Advisor
Jean Noel Gagnard, Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2014
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2014 Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru, of which there are three barrels this year (two of them new), has a very intense bouquet: a touch of sea spray and a faint hint of licorice, lime flower and yellow plum. The palate is very well balanced with impressive weight and heft. The acidity is nicely poised, gently building towards a very refined, harmonious finish with lime and Granny Smith apples. It is very persistent Bâtard Montrachet that will give 15-20 years of pleasure.
About the Producer
Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël, in 1989, though Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard still retains his name. The estate’s modern reputation has very much been built by Caroline, who has made it her responsibility to develop the many expressions of Chassagne Montrachet terroirs across her range. There are 12 different Premiers Crus to choose from; some now carry their own identity, having previously been offered under the larger Morgeot appellation. She has bought more land in Chassagne when available and affordable, and there’s a very well-situated white wine vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes, sold under the L’Estimée brand. Some very attractive reds from Chassagne round off the range. The vineyards are all organic, now certified; Caroline plans to put that status on her labels from the 2019 vintage. In the winery A little perspective is always an asset with Caroline’s wines: it’s not her style to manipulate or force, and any perception of dumbness is always mitigated once in bottle. Caroline is always very attuned to her wines’ progress during élevage.
