Wine Advisor
Laurent Ponsot, Bourgogne Blanc 2020
Description
Laurent Ponsot, Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy, White, 2019
About the Producer
The story of Domaine Ponsot began with William Ponsot, who came from St. Roman, yet after returning from the Franco-Russian war, settled in Morey St. Denis in 1872. William’s father thereon bought him a number of plots. Under William, the Domain boasted Clos des Monts Luisants, followed shortly after by Clos de La Roche, which is their largest and finest holding. They then began to cultivate fruit in Les Charmes, Les Combottes and in Gevrey Chambertin. The Estate, while it does not call itself organic, makes use of no insecticide or pesticide. Laurent now uses the position of the stars and cycles of the moon to help the rhythm of the vines and surrounding plants. They use no sorting table; all defective bunches are removed long before even picking. The grapes are destalked, then allowed to ferment at their own leisure, for as long as they want, reflecting Laurent’s view that punching down and pumping over are overused. Aside from monitoring temperature, the grapes get on with the business of fermenting, then put in barrels which are 10 years old. Aside from a possible faint use when picked, the grapes see no sulphur, unless there is a problem. It is all rather like Roger Federer’s serve, all simple and minimalistic, but you try doing it. The winemaking means that the wine is often difficult when young, there is no extraction to be found, so colour can fade and obvious richness is reserved for later, for when a bottle of Ponsot has age, which is an ethereal experience. The average vine age at the Estate is over 50 years, giving intense, yet subtle depth and richness. Ponsot’s wines are renowned and loved for their power, focus, mysterious depth and intense concentration of flavour and sweet spice. The grand cru, once ten years in, are among the most beautiful and harmonious of any wine and one of wine’s great treats. They are also capable of ageing for decades, gracefully yet encouraging intense tertiary flavours.