Wine Advisor
Louis Roederer, Cristal Rose Brut 2002
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephan Reinhardt
The 2002 Cristal Rosé has always been suspected to become a legend one day. Now, nine years later, the onion-colored wine has arrived in the Olympus of the finest Champagnes. Clear, matured and vinous on the intense and complex yet very delicate nose, this is a lush, succulent, perfectly round and intense 2002 that equilibrates its generosity and texture with great elegance and spellbinding balance. Stunningly, this seamless, charmingly seductive and voluptuous character is combined with great purity and harmony, especially in the finish that is not just round and caressing but also fresh, piquant and stimulatingly salty. Is there anything more we could expect from a Rosé Champagne? Even if you served me the wine in a black glass, it would still be a gorgeous, beautiful wine. Yes, it's wine rather than anything else, and its bubbly vinosity makes me desperate for more. If I just could, I would marry the 2002 Cristal Rosé straightaway. The cuvée reflects a great continental vintage as well as the stupendous terroirs of Aÿ (Pinot Noir: 60%), Avize and Mesnil (Chardonnay: 40%). The bottle I tasted at Roederer in Reims in May 2018 was disgorged in 2011, so, like the 2008, after eight years on the second lees. Postscript: When I came back home from the tasing two weeks later and re-read my notes that finished with, "This is very, very close to 100 points," and had the score as "99+" (the most brutal of all scores), I asked myself: was this artificial reservation just because of the stupendous potential of the 2008 Cristal? Or was it due to the fact the 2002 Cristal Rosé could be topped by the 2002 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque in five years or so? Sometimes we critics tend to be too academic while speed tasting wine, and we don't have the spontaneous joy of drinking wine like our readers. If I only had the choice, I would have ended my day with the 2002 Cristal Rosé, but in fact, I met the wine only for 15 to 20 minutes. I loved it, it's a spellbinding beauty, but is this 2002 really the first 100-pointer Champagne in the 40-year history of The Wine Advocate? I don't know if it is the best Champagne of the past 40 years (I would never say that for any wine), but in fact, I would be the first reviewer giving a Champagne the perfect score. Is this wine really worth it? Today, I am asking myself why I have put myself through these questions instead of just drinking a glass of this Rosé Cristal, at least one! What do we know about tomorrow? Will we still be here? Will the 2008 be as good as the 2002 is right now just because the grapes were cultivated 100% biodynamically, thus with even more care? Well, here and now is the 2002, and it will most likely not get any better but will keep its high class for years. It is doubtlessly the finest Rosé Champagne I have ever had, and if I had to write down all the attributes I like to find in a perfect Rosé, it would be charm, finesse and generosity as well as freshness, intensity and purity, or simply: "Just like the Cristal Rosé 2002."
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2002 Brut Cristal Rose shows the classic Roederer introspectiveness that can sometimes make the wines hard to grasp when they are young. It, too, is a relatively lightly-colored rose. The bouquet is beautifully woven into a fabric of layered, ripe fruit. With some time in the glass, the wine’s textural beauty becomes more apparent, but this is a Champagne that needs bottle age. It should be spectacular in time. Cristal Rose is made with the same technique as the rose, which is to say the Pinot is cold-macerated on the skins for 6-7 days, but the percentage of oak is a touch higher. For Cristal Rose the Pinot is sourced from Ay and the percentage of Chardonnay (from Avize and Mesnil) is a touch higher than the Brut Rose at 40% of the blend. This is Lot L031784L100149, disgorged in April, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. This is another set of exceptional new releases from Roederer, one of the very few of the larger houses that captures the full potential of Champagne as an art of blended wine. Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon and his team have done a marvelous job with these Champagnes. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2004 Cristal, which will be released in the Spring of 2010. Lecaillon is also working on a new wine, a Brut Nature Champagne (equal parts Pinot and Chardonnay, and likely to be a vintage wine) which will also be released next Spring. Readers who want to learn more about this historic house may want to take a look at my vertical of Cristal going back to 1979 available on www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the IMW Louis Roederer tasting. A blend of 56% Pinot Noir and 44% Chardonnay, 20% oak fermented. Disgorged in April 2008, this has a light, dewy, rose petal tinged nose that is as light as a feather. Very understated and alluring. It unfurls in the glass with hints of hazelnut, strawberry pralines and a hint of icing sugar. The palate is beautifully balanced, silky smooth, touches of morello, orange peel, acacia, very refined and poised on the finish. Beautiful. Drink now-2025+ Tasted December 2009.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Roederer’s 2002 Cristal is still in its infant, fresh stage. Subtle notes of pears, flowers, spices, mint, minerals and oak are woven into a cashmere-like frame of extraordinary grace and elegance. This beautifully-sculpted Champagne possesses notable clarity but with the additional depth of fruit that is characteristic of this vintage. It is a gorgeous, seductive Cristal of the highest level. In 2002, Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay with 10 grams of dosage. 20% of the wine was fermented in oak. This is Lot : L030351A107809. This bottle was disgorged in June 28th, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2032. Roederer is one of the most impressive estates in Champagne. Few houses have managed to reconcile this level production in a negociant operation while achieving such a consistently outstanding level of quality across the entire range. Roederer owns 214 hectares of vineyards, which is enough to meet 65-70% of the house’s needs. The vintage wines are made from 100% estate-grown fruit, while the NV wines are made with the addition of roughly 45% purchased fruit. Generally speaking, malolactic fermentation and oak aging are used to a higher degree for the NV range than for the vintage wines. Dosage varies as well, and ranges from 11-12 grams for the entry-level wines to 9-10 for the tete de cuvee Cristal. Unfortunately because if its rabid following the vast majority of Cristal is drunk upon release, which is ironic, if not downright tragic, considering Cristal is a wine that starts peaking around age 15-20, and that can last much longer under ideal storage conditions. With Cristal, Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon aims to make an ageworthy Champagne that is fresh and floral when young, but that is also capable of considerable development with bottle age, qualities the finest Cristals have in spades. In the best vintages one tank of Cristal Rose is also made that features the exquisite Pinot Noir of Ay. Unfortunately Roederer does not provide disgorgement dates for its wines, but the bottles have codes that can be traced back to dates at the winery. It would be great to see this venerable property add a simple disgorgement date, at least for their top wines, considering the significant financial investment required to purchase them. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000
Reviewed by: Stephan Reinhardt
Roederer's 2002 Cristal is a fabulous wine! Originally released in 2009, it was re-released in March this year—and was sold out in a very short time. The Cristal I tasted at Roederer in May 2018 was disgorged in 2010, after seven years sur lie. Its amazing richness and concentration makes it a forerunner of the 2015 and follows the 1999. Only two times—2002 and 2015—the fruit from all 42 plots reserved for Cristal was used for the Cristal. "I couldn't do any better blend than the one assembling all the 42 plots," says Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, stressing that at that time only two hectares were farmed biodynamically. As a result of the conversion to biodynamic farming, Lécaillon promised himself the production of even more beautiful, vital and balanced wines, and you can feel his satisfaction whenever he speaks of the cuvées that are yet to come such as 2012 and 2015, the latter of which he calls "the new 2002." Back to history: the nose of the 2002 Cristal shows a deep, ripe and elegant fruit with aromas of white chocolate, wet chalk, wild vanilla and pepper (typical for 2002) as well as terroir-driven truffle notes. Intense and very elegant in the mouth, this is a ripe, rich and concentrated yet also pure and vital Cristal with great finesse, elegance and mineral complexity. It's a sublime Champagne right now, although it's more wine than Champagne. Tasted in Reims in May 2018.
Reviewed by: Lisa Perrotti-Brown
Seriously precocious nose with notes of apple blossom, fresh strawberries, clotted cream, cashews and lightly toasted hazelnuts plus a barely detectable hint of oak. Great concentration of apple crumble flavours with very fine bubbles and a crisp backbone of acid. Long creamy finish. Drink 2010 to 2029. Tasted March 2009.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2002 Cristal is a gorgeous, sculpted wine of extraordinary elegance. Graceful, well-delineated aromatics lead to ripe pears, spices, flowers, minerals and mint in this precise Champagne. Today the 2002 appears to have slightly more fruit than the 1996, and perhaps slightly better overall balance, although that is splitting hairs at this level. The wine remains fresh and in need of several years of cellaring before it hits its stride. In 2002 Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. 20% of the wine was aged in oak, and dosage was 10 grams. This bottle was disgorged in December 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2032.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the IMW Louis Roederer tasting. Disgorged 2008. This has a similar bouquet to the bottle poured in September, candied orange peel, a touch of acacia honey and a little chalk dust. It just seems to lack the vigour and the vivacity of other vintages. The palate has very good weight, concentrated, slightly honeyed fruit, good acidity, hints of sour lemon, lemon sherbet, apricot and a little almond. Very dense, a little tight at the moment, becoming spicier in the glass. Very good length. Overall, better than the showing in September, lighter on its feet, but it needs another year or two in bottle. Drink 2011-2025+ Tasted December 2009.
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Tasted from the original 2009 disgorgement, the 2002 Cristal is a broad, vinous wine, bursting with aromas of honeyed yellow orchard fruit, warm butter, brioche and fresh peaches. On the palate, it's full-bodied, textural and mouthfilling, rendering the fine-boned chalky structure and textural finesse that distinguish this quintessentially elegant style of this cuvée in a broader-shouldered, more enveloping register. The 2002 is beginning to enter its plateau of maturity and is drinking beautifully today, though it still has many years ahead of it.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Whilst I have always enjoyed the Cristal ’02, it has never “blown me away” and here it is put in its place by the Krug ’96. It retains that smooth, seductive, almond and here, white truffle scented bouquet that is very “cosy”. Yet I would have liked greater vigour. The palate is nicely balanced with soft coconut and white peach notes. There is still that luxuriant feel to this Cristal, but it does not want to put in the effort. Tasted November 2012.
About the Producer
When he inherited the Champagne House in 1833, the aesthete and entrepreneur Louis Roederer took a visionary approach to enriching his vines, aiming to master every stage of the wine’s creation. He forged the wine’s unique style, character, and taste. In the mid-nineteenth century, Louis Roederer acquired some of Champagne’s grand cru vineyards—an approach that contrasted sharply with contemporary practices.. While other Houses bought their grapes, Louis Roederer nurtured his vineyards, familiarized himself with the specific characteristics of each parcel, and methodically acquired the finest land. Louis Roederer’s guiding principle was that all great wine depends on the quality of the soil, a passion for tradition, and an astute vision of the future; the fame and reputation of the House of Louis Roederer was firmly established. His heir, Louis Roederer II was equally enlightened and adopted his father’s conscientious approach to the production of champagne, patrimonial estate management, and instinctive audacity.
