Wine Advisor
Ausone 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Ausone vertical in London. A deep garnet core with some ageing on the rim. The bouquet is very attractive, beginning to develop secondary aromas with macerated black cherries, blueberry, honey a touch of damson and a touch of espresso. Superb definition, the oak fully integrated into the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied, very fine tannins, still very taut with noticeable acidity. This is certainly an Ausone that would benefit from decanting, the finish developing an almost Burgundian texture with red cherries, a touch of bergamot and a hint of Chinese tea. Again, it needs time, for there is a lot of glycerin at the moment. Great length and persistency, fanning out beautifully with time in the glass. Drink 2011-2025. Tasted December 2009.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
You should not contemplate purchasing this wine unless you are willing to cellar it for at least 10-15 years. An extremely saturated black/purple color is followed by aromas of minerals, black fruits, and flowers. It is ferociously tannic, but gorgeously extracted, with outstanding purity and an old vine intensity that kicks in on the mid-palate and continues through the wine's finish. Backward, rich, and massive for Ausone, it requires considerable bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040. To be purchased for your children and/or grandchildren!
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A deep garnet/ruby colour. The nose is magnificent with stunning delineation, black berries, and a hint of cooked meats, rosemary, espresso and graphite. Very complex and compelling. A touch of iodine and shellfish develops with time. The palate has an explosive entry on the palate, lots of dry extract, huge structure but with the acidity and the tension to keep everything in balance. A touch of black pepper towards the finish that suggest this wine is still very closed and would benefit from at least ten years further cellaring. Tasted March 2008.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
A huge, backward Ausone, the 1998 will require a decade or more of cellaring. The impressively saturated purple color is followed by intense aromas of black fruits, crushed stones, and flowers. In the mouth, it is rich and weighty, with superb potential, but the mouth-searing tannin (which is balanced by the wine's profound concentration) suggests a long, long life. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040+.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Perhaps I am being harsh, tasting this after the ethereal 2000, but again I expected a little more from a Right Bank 1998. A deep, almost opaque black colour. A very broody, backward nose: minerally, earthy with a little anis developing with time. Very intense palate with thick, saturated tannins. Quite voluptuous, it lacks the sophistication and finesse of the 2000 with a dense, savory finish. A bit monolithic now: this may warrant a higher score in a decade’s time. Certainly a vin de garde.. Excellent. Tasted January 2005.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Readers should not hesitate to check out Ausone's new second wine, Chapelle d'Ausone. It reveals Ausone's minerality, finesse, and quality presented in a lower-keyed, more open-knit style. A dense opaque purple color offers up restrained, but pure aromas of liquid minerals, blackberries, black raspberries, and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, with high tannin but a long, super-pure, symmetrical mouth-feel, this dazzling, extremely complex Ausone requires 6-10 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Saturated deep ruby, much darker and brighter than the other vintages tasted. Sappy, fresh aromas of boysenberry, cassis, minerals, bitter chocolate and espresso, with complicating notes of underbrush and earth. Extremely pure and penetrating, with fruit of steel and a powerful mineral underpinning. Finishes with strong, firm tannins and great persistence. Essence of Ausone, without the funkiness shown by so many past vintages of this wine. Offers exciting potential. Drink 2008 to 2030.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Full, saturated ruby-red. Extremely pure aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, violet, minerals and espresso. Lush, silky and wonderfully dense for '98, though in a rather clenched phase today. This is tactile and impressively deep in the middle palate. Slow-building finish features big but ripe tannins and great purity of flavor. A classic style of Ausone that will go on for decades.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Saturated full ruby. Precise, vibrant aromas of black and bitter cherry, minerals and sexy oak. At once lush and penetrating, with uncanny concentration and delineation of flavor. Showing great inner-mouth complexity, even after the fining. Extremely long, fine finish features substantial noble tannins and superb grip. A great Ausone.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Deep ruby. Brilliant aromas of bitter cherry, black raspberry, minerals and stone. Wonderful velvety sweetness and complexity in the mouth; penetrating dark berry, mineral and clove flavors offer great snap and purity. Truly multifaceted wine, revealing additional nuances as it opens in the glass. Kicks into a higher gear on the slow-mounting finish. A wine of great persistence and class.
About the Producer
Located in the Saint-Emilion appellation on the right bank of Bordeaux, France, Chateau Ausone is one of only four Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe A estates in the appellation and one of the eight most prestigious estates in Bordeaux. The 7.25 hectares of vineyards at Château d'Orson are oriented to the east or south-east, allowing the vineyards to enjoy the full sun and to be protected from the north-west winds. The vineyard's proximity to the Dordogne, which is regulated by the river, provides an ideal microclimate for the grapes to grow, and the fact that the vineyard was not seriously affected by the severe frosts of 1892 and 1956 is testament to the terroir. While Merlot is the dominant wine in the Saint-Emilion appellation, Cabernet Franc is the preferred wine at Château d'Ausone, with Cabernet Franc planted in the vineyard, supplemented by some Merlot and a very small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, which is used only for the secondary wines (Chapelle d'Ausone, Saint-Emilion). 'Ausone, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, France). The average age of these vines is 52 years, with the oldest vines, planted in the early 20th century, being up to 100 years old and planted at a density of 6,500-12,000 vines per hectare. The soils are predominantly calcareous clay and limestone, which is the main reason for the minerality of the red wines of Château Ausone, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe, France. The organic and biodynamic approach to vineyard management and winemaking at Château Ausone is a commitment to producing wines that express the full character of the terroir. In the vineyards, the staff takes care of the vines, planting fruit trees and aromatic plants, allowing insects, birds and even bats to come and go, in order to release the vitality of the soil and promote the harmony of the entire vineyard ecosystem. During the harvest, the grapes are very carefully selected and only healthy grapes of optimum ripeness are used to make the wine. During the winemaking process, the treated grapes are first subjected to Cold Maceration to extract the pigments and flavours from the skins. Next, alcoholic fermentation takes place in large traditional oak barrels, followed by Malolactic Fermentation in small French oak barrels. After this, the estate's main wines are aged in 100% new oak barrels for up to 24 months, adjusted to the characteristics of the vintage. The wines are aged in the estate's natural limestone cellars, where the humidity and temperature are stable and provide excellent conditions for the wines to age. The wines of Château d'Orson have always been known as "the poet's wine", with a deep colour, very pure aromas of dark fruit, liquorice, flowers and crushed stone, full-bodied but not too heavy, and with great potential for ageing. Robert Parker once said: "If patience is not your virtue, there is no point in buying a bottle of Ouzo". The quality of Château Ouzon's wines has been consistent, with the best vintages including 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2001, 2000 and 1998, to name but a few. In addition, the estate's secondary wine was born in 1995 from a selection of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the young vines of the estate. Thanks to the limestone soils of the estate, this wine is rich in mineral flavours, with aromas of black cherry, blackberry, cassis and flowers, a full-bodied wine with velvety tannins and a long, impressive finish. With Robert Parker and James Suckling scores of over 90 points in almost all vintages, this wine has long ageing potential.
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