Wine Advisor
Leflaive, Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2007
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Domaine. Compared to the Bienvenue, there is a lot more vinosity on the nose here, but builds with aeration to reveal notes of granite, green apple that engaging aroma of a dewy mountainside. The palate is more introverted but more complex than the Bienvenue, beautifully defined, superb tension and poise with just a hint of hazelnut on the citrus finish. As usual, giving little away now, but certainly very refined. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted January 2009.
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
Pineapple, mandarin; hibiscus and orange blossom mark the nose of the Leflaive 2007 Batard-Montrachet. Honey, bittersweet citrus oil, marmalade, apricot preserves, and liquid floral perfume create a sense of seductive ripeness matched by textural opulence. But this lacks the nuance, lift, or intriguing mineral dimension of the Bienvenues-Batard or the Pucelles. A pungent smokiness clings to its bittersweet finish. I imagine this being slightly less age-worthy than the two aforementioned crus, but only time will tell. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Knockout nose combines musky pineapple, lime and powdered stone; seems less exotic than the 2008. Wonderfully silky on entry, then explosively ripe and sweet in the middle, with powerful, palate-staining flavors of lime and flowers. Very rich and impeccably balanced, with its sweetness perfectly countered by firm buffering acidity. A great showing for this extremely long grand cru.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of peach, spices, nut oils and charred oak. Full, sweet and chewy, with a sexy leesy complexity, excellent balance and solid underlying structure. Plenty ripe but not overly powerful. Finishes pure, minerally and impressively long. A lovely Batard in the making, and showing better today than the Bienvenues.
About the Producer
Domaine Leflaive, based in Puligny-Montrachet, is one of the most important producers in the Côte de Beaune. Focusing almost entirely on white wines made from Chardonnay, the Domaine makes four grand cru wines and four premier crus in Puligny-Montrachet. The Domaine was founded by Joseph Leflaive, a former engineer. In 1905, he purchased vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet which had been ravaged by phylloxera, and set about replanting and expanding them. Upon his death in 1953, his sons Vincent and Jo took over the running of the estate, and are widely credited with building up the reputation that Leflaive enjoys today. In 1990, cousins Anne Claude and Olivier Leflaive took over the running of the estate, with Olivier leaving in 1994 to run his own negociant business. Anne Claude converted the vineyards to biodynamics and is considered a pioneer of that movement in Burgundy. After her death in 2015, her nephew Brice de la Morandiere has taken over the running of Domaine Leflaive. Domaine Leflaive's most important wine is arguably the Montrachet Grand Cru, which, depending on vintage, can fetch upwards of $5000 a bottle. The domaine also has land in Chevalier-Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, and makes a grand cru wine from each. Additional to this, there are several premier cru wines, the most important of which is probably the Les Clavoillon, which was one of the wines included in the 1976 Judgment of Paris. Domaine Leflaive also makes a sole red wine from Pinot Noir under the Blagny Sous le Dos d'Ane Premier Cru title.
