Wine Advisor
Jean Noel Gagnard, Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2013
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly deeper in color than the example from Domaine de la Vougeraie. It has a rich and quite powerful bouquet, but it maintains impressive definition with very subtle tropical scents that do not impede against terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, a rich and boisterous Bâtard-Montrachet determined to make an impression, laden with spice and tangy marmalade notes on the finish. What it might lack in sophistication it compensates with sheer bravura, although it does require a couple of years in bottle (as usual with this grand cru). Tasted May 2016.
About the Producer
Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël, in 1989, though Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard still retains his name. The estate’s modern reputation has very much been built by Caroline, who has made it her responsibility to develop the many expressions of Chassagne Montrachet terroirs across her range. There are 12 different Premiers Crus to choose from; some now carry their own identity, having previously been offered under the larger Morgeot appellation. She has bought more land in Chassagne when available and affordable, and there’s a very well-situated white wine vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes, sold under the L’Estimée brand. Some very attractive reds from Chassagne round off the range. The vineyards are all organic, now certified; Caroline plans to put that status on her labels from the 2019 vintage. In the winery A little perspective is always an asset with Caroline’s wines: it’s not her style to manipulate or force, and any perception of dumbness is always mitigated once in bottle. Caroline is always very attuned to her wines’ progress during élevage.
