Wine Advisor
Jean Francois Ganevat, Grusse en Billat 2016
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Luis Gutiérrez
I love the fluorescent yellow color of the Chardonnay 2016 Grusse en Billat, which portrays a pungent nose and feels very mineral and complex, with a bitter touch that feels very Jura—different from Burgundy—finishing long and dry. All of Ganevat's whites from 2016 are between 12% and 13.2% alcohol, and 2016 was a fresh vintage here, fresher than the ripe 2015 and very different from the often-exotic 2016 whites from Burgundy that had the concentration effect of the frost that didn't hit here until 2017. But these 2016s feel a lot more powerful than what they are. This is intense, and I love the magic color it has! I think this could be the last vintage for this wine, as he gave this vineyard to Kenjiro Kagami from Domaine des Miroirs (look him up in this very same issue, because his wines are mind-boggling). Or maybe he gave him part and kept another part, I'll try to ask Ganevat next time...
About the Producer
Jean-François Ganevat is a renowned minimal interventionist wine producer based in Rotalier, in the Jura region of eastern France. The family-owned domaine, established in 1650, is currently run by Ganevat, who previously trained at Domaine Jean-Marc Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet. The estate spans 8.5 hectares (21 acres) and produces approximately 1,700 cases annually, featuring 35-40 different cuvées that highlight terroir and grape variety. Ganevat's vineyards are certified biodynamic and include 17 local grape varieties, some of which are rare or outlawed. He employs traditional winemaking techniques, such as hand de-stemming, aging white wines on the lees for a minimum of two years, and completely avoiding sulfur since 2006. His diverse portfolio includes Vin Jaune, Macvin du Jura, and Crémant du Jura, showcasing his commitment to quality and innovation in natural winemaking.
